Solo Travelling in Scandinavia DAY II
Shakespearean Helsingør
One of the reasons it's such a popular place to visit is its Shakespearean past. For this is Elsinore, home to Hamlet's castle, the mighty Kronborg. The medieval quarter is particularly pleasant place to visit on foot and has some fascinating buildings, such as the beautifully preserved Carmelite Monastery (Karmeliterklostret) attached to St. Mary's Church (Sankt Mariæ Kirke). Throughout the streets of the old town, you'll find boutiques, atmospheric cafés, and charming restaurants.
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| Picture was taken with a Nikon D500 during the sunset A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kronborg Castle is the setting of Shakespeare's Hamlet and the top tourist attraction in Helsingor. In the northeast of town, on a peninsula in the Øresund (the sound on which Helsingor sits), the towering castle is plainly visible from afar. |
Originally, a fortress built around 1420 by Eric of Pomerania stood here. A new castle, a four-winged building with an enclosed inner courtyard, was built between 1574 and 1584 under Frederick II. After a catastrophic fire in 1629, King Christian IV had the castle rebuilt between 1635 and 1640.
For more than 100 years, the structure served as a garrison and, in 1924, it was renovated. The Castle Chapel lies in the South Wing with a splendid Renaissance interior and woodcarvings from Germany. The North Wing contains the great Ballroom or Knights' Hall. Superb tapestries are on display in the West Wing.
Helsingør is home to many public works of art, including sculptures, statues, monuments, and murals. Most of the city's most prominent works are located in or around the old shipyard area, close to Kronborg Castle. The Dancer's Fountain (Danserindebronden) greets visitors at the intersection of Kronborgvej and Allégade, a lovely sculpture of Royal Ballet dancers, which was moved to this spot from Copenhagen in 1933.
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| The Shipyard Workers |
Proceeding down Allégade, the Maritime History murals adorn two buildings on the right, while down the street on the other side, The Shipyard Workers make their way home from a long day's work. One of the city's most popular monuments, these lifelike figures created by Hans Pauli Olsen are a tribute to not just the workers themselves, but to the industry that helped build their city.
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Nearby, at the edge of the water overlooking the water is Han, nicknamed "the little merman" because it was created as a companion piece to Copenhagen's famous Little Mermaid statue. In stark contrast to the bronze dock workers up the street, Han is polished and a more interpretive representation of a man, gazing across the water at the castle. If you stick around long enough and pay close attention, the eyes will shut for just a second – only once every half hour.
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| Herakles og Hydraen |
On the harbor's north pier beyond the castle grounds (where you will also find a statue of Hamlet) is a statue that embodies myth and legend: Heracles and the Hydra (Herakles og Hydraen). It took the artist over a decade to complete, and has been moved several times since it was first installed.
Mural lovers will find more at the main bus terminal, a massive maritime-themed work of art that draws in whimsy and myth. It is part of the "Life in the Sound" public art project, as is the fish sculpture that sits in front of the Maritime Museum, near the aquarium.
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| the striking red brick Gothic cathedral |
Built in 1559, the striking red brick Gothic cathedral of St. Olaf's (Sankt Olai) nestles in the heart of town. Named after the Norwegian King Olav, who was canonized, the church is adorned with various depictions of him.
The building, originally a church, but consecrated as a cathedral in 1961, was completed in 1559, however its history dates back to the 13th century. Remains of ancient decorations adorning the old Romanesque chapel that once stood here can still be seen in the north wall of the nave. Other points of interest include Dutch alabaster altarpieces, the beautifully carved pulpit, and a number of frescoes.
Day Trip to Frederiksborg Castle
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| Frederiksborg Castle |
Less than a half-hour drive (25 kilometers) from Helsingor, near Hillerod, is stunning 17th century Frederiksborg Castle, an absolute must-see if visiting this area. Built in the Dutch Renaissance style, Frederiksborg is spectacularly well preserved.
The castle lies on three islands in Frederiksborg Lake and was restored in its original style after a fire in 1859. Since 1888, the main courtyard has featured a copy of the Fountain of Neptune by Adrian de Vries (1623), the original of which was taken to Sweden in 1658.
The Danish Museum of National History has been housed here since 1878. Adjoining Frederiksborg to the north by the lake is a superb Baroque park with pristine terraces and avenues bordered by lime trees.
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| Baroque park with pristine terraces |
There are many great places in Helsingør for lunch or dinner, but if you are indecisive like me, Værftets Madmarked is the place to go.
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| Værftets Madmarked |
Since its opening in May 2017, Værftets Madmarked has been a meeting point for old and young alike and offers a sea of street food concepts in a rustic, maritime setting. "Open all days of the week from 11-20. Life is too short for boring too experiences" says the official website, and I completely agree. At first I was little bit skeptical, as the reviews online are mixed, and I do enjoy my meals. I believe that sometimes it's a hit or miss, depending on the cook or vendor. I have no complaints from my stay in Værftets Madmarked. There are also many great restaurants around with fabulous reviews, so I do not think you can go wrong.
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| I was in the mood for ramen due to the cold weather |
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| A last walk through the city |
Unfortunately, I did not have the time to visit Fredensborg Palace, as it was getting late. So I decided to go for a last stroll through the city, take some pictures. and learn a little bit of history about the city from some locals. Apparently, he name Helsingør has been believed to be derived from the word hals meaning "neck" or "narrow strait," referring to the narrowest point of the Øresund (Øre Sound) between what is now Helsingør and Helsingborg, Sweden. Although an obscure legendary character, or several, Helsing is quite abundantly present in traces of lost legends in the Nordic countries. Although probably not the first Helsing, one of the three sons of Gandalf Alfgeirsson (the antagonist of Halfdan the Black, who was father of King Harald Fairhair, the semi-legendary, historical first king of a feudalist Norway) is called Helsing. If you have seen the show Vikings, then probably those names should sound familiar.
If I visit Helsingor again, I would definitely like to visit Fredensborg Palace and The National Maritime Museum. The informative and dramatic exhibits include relics from Denmark's conquests in Greenland, India, the West Indies, and West Africa. The area is also the site of the Culture Yard; a theater, concert venue, library, and restaurant housed in a cutting-edge glass and steel structure created from old wharf buildings
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| and that was day II... |
After a quick cup of coffee, I am walking towards the station where I will catch my train and head back to Copenhagen.
Chrysoula Veizi is a founder and Editor-in-Chief at ᴛʀᴀᴠᴇʟɢʀᴀᴍᴇʀᴄ.
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